Well, that depends. After a few months, open a bottle. Then your mead is at the right age and you can enjoy unreservedly; let libations abound. Not quite there yet? Then give it a while longer. Hey, so you decided to leave a comment! That's great. Just fill in the required fields and hit submit.
Note that your comment will need to be reviewed before its published. Add to cart. Leave a comment Cancel reply Hey, so you decided to leave a comment! Gather supplies Ensure you have all the equipment and ingredients necessary to make mead. Step 3. Clean equipment Using unscented cleanser, thoroughly clean all meadmaking equipment. Step 4. Warm honey Submerge the containers of honey in a warm water bath. Step 5. Sanitize equipment While the honey is warming, thoroughly sanitize all equipment and tools that will come into contact with the ingredients.
Step 6. Add water Fill the clean and sanitzed primary fermenter half way with water. Step 7. Add honey Remove the honey from the warm water bath, and proceed to add it to the half-full fermenter. Step 8. Top off Add enough water to the honey and water mixture in the fermenter until you reach a total volume of 5 gallons 19 L. Step 9. Mix thoroughly With the full batch volume in the fermenter, use a sanitized spoon or seal the carboy and shake until the honey and water is completely mixed.
Step Take temperature Using a clean and sanitzed thermometer, measure the temperature of the must. Gravity reading Optional: Before pitching the yeast, pull a sample of the must and take a gravity reading using a hydrometer.
Seal fermenter If using a bucket fermenter for primary, tightly secure the lid and put an airlock in the hole of the lid. Aerate must As is the case when making beer, it is crucial to provide enough oxygen to the yeast at the point of pitching. Monitor Fermentation Signs of fermentation should be visible within 24 hours.
Transfer to secondary After weeks, the bubbling of the airlock should slow down or cease completely, signifying primary fermentation is nearly complete. Free Book with a 3-year Membership Gift Yourself. Log In Username Please enter your username. Password Please enter your password. If the must temp is too hot or too cold, you could potentially do damage to the yeast when you introduce it to the must so that is why you need it to be about the same temperature.
After the must has cooled to room temp, you need to add it to the fermentor. If you use a plastic fermentor, you pretty much have to open up the lid if you want to inspect your fermentation. Whatever type of fermentor that you use, it is now time to add about gallons of fresh, room temp water to the fermentor and then our chilled must. Add the water first and then put on the lid if you are using the plastic version.
Place your funnel into the top of the fermentor. If you have some chunks or chunks of debris in your must that you don't want to go into the fermentor, place a strainer in the funnel. Slowly pour the contents of the brewpot into the fermentor. You should end up with about 5 - 5. At this point, you should take a hydrometer reading of your pre-fermented must. This will give a point of reference so that we can measure and monitor the fermentation process.
Now place your hydrometer into the tube, let it settle, and take the reading. Record the number of where the must meets the hydrometer. It could be anywhere from 1. Now it is time to pitch the yeast. Oh yeah, did you remember to rinse out your brewpot and the other utensils before they dried?
Now is a good time to do that if you have not done so already. Before you throw the yeast into the must, you want to aereate the must. The must has already been areated to some extent when you poured it into the fermentor but it is a good idea to slosh it around or stir it up with a sanitized spoon in order to get as much oxygen in the must as possible.
The yeast need oxygen in order to get going so this is why you need to perform this step. Once you are done with the aereation process, you can add the yeast to the fermentor and stir it in. Put the fermentation lock on the top and put it in a cool, dark corner somewhere. About the fermentation lock though. First you will place the stopper in the hole of the plastic lid or the top of the glass fermentor.
For the fermentation lock, you want to have some sanitized water inside of it. After I have sealed the fermentor with the stopper, I place the fermentation lock into the stopper. This pretty much concludes the boil part of the processs and now you are ready for the fun part, cleanup! For fermentation you will need 2 vessels, 1 for primary fermentation and 1 for secondary fermentation.
Primary fermentation is where most of the fermentation process takes place and for a mead, this phase can last anywhere from a few weeks to months. This is one area where mead really differs from beer. The brewing process is much shorter, but the fermentation process is much longer. For the Champagne Yeast that I use for the dry meads, the total fermentation process takes about 4 weeks, maybe a little longer.
Once you have the cooled must and yeast all mixed up in your fermentor, it is time to let the yeast start doing their work. Anywhere from hours after you pitch the yeast in the must, you will start to notice pressurization in the fermenation lock and then outright bubbling.
A foam may or may not appear on top of the must. A lot of what happens during your fermentation will depend on the yeast strain that you use. When the bubbling starts to slow down or stop outright, it is time to transfer the mead, yes, it is mead now, into the secondary.
0コメント