Blow in the fill between and over the joists rather than across them. Always use unfaced batts, both when laying product for the first time and to prevent moisture from becoming trapped between new and old layers of insulation. You can buy them unfaced or simply remove the paper or foil backing.
Place a new layer of unfaced batts perpendicular to the old layer, to cover any gaps in the lower layer. Adjoining batts should be butted snugly together, but not tight enough to compress them. Never lay heavier batts, such as cotton, over lighter ones, like fiberglass. You'll compress the lower layer and reduce its effectiveness. Always cut batts to fit around obstructions and penetrations. Stuffing or cramming them around ducts, piping, and the like will compress the air-trapping pockets in the material, reducing its insulating properties.
Don't leave any gaps between batts and joists, obstructions, or abutting batts. Even narrow ones will let air escape. Instead, cut a thin strip of the insulation you're using to size. Some pros prefer it to utility knives because the large blade easily slices through the thick material. Use a piece of plywood as a cutting surface, and stand on a scrap 24 as a straightedge to guide your cuts. If you're considering turning your attic into conditioned storage or living space, it's worth changing tactics to insulate between the rafters and wall joists instead of the floor.
You can use rigid foam panels or do as Tom Silva does with nearly all houses these days: Hire a pro to install spray foam insulation. Foam blocks airflow needs no vapor barrier and has a higher R-value per inch than loose fill or batts, so you'll get more protection with less depth. With spray foam, unlike with loose fill or batts, you must cover the soffit vents they aren't needed to keep the roof cool. Then cover the foam with drywall as required for fire safety.
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By choosing I Accept , you consent to our use of cookies and other tracking technologies. By Mickey Goodman. Pinterest Email Pocket Flipboard. Start with The Attic Floor Stop using your attic for storage.
Zohar Lazar. Courtesy of Department of Energy. Courtesy Inspectapedia. Thanks for signing up! Danny Lipford: Before you go out and buy any insulation for your attic, get an idea of how much you have in the attic now.
Just measure what you have. Here I have about four inches, which is probably only going to relate to around an R-5, not enough by any means. And I want to shoot for about an R So, I have some R which is about nine inches of insulation. Then you need all the right equipment. You know, the goggles like this, kind of goofy looking, but they are pretty good to keep the fibers out of your eyes.
And, of course, the dust mask, your gloves, you need a good sharp knife. Put a little of this on your wrist maybe on the back of your neck and around a little bit. After that, all you do is cut it out, roll it out perpendicular to your joist, and you start saving money on your energy bill. My wife saw you program this week and wanted to know more about the product you used for insulating a crawl space.
We could not locate the video. Hi, Bill, We used Roxul stone wool insulation. If your wall cavities are not going to be open, you could consider injectable spray foam insulation. In a new home, first see our information about insulating a new home , which will help you choose from among the many types of insulation on the market. These materials literally have insulation built in, and houses built using these products often have superior insulating qualities and minimal thermal bridging.
These techniques improve the whole-wall R-value by reducing thermal bridging and maximizing the insulated wall area. Also consider using insulating foam wall sheathing rather than wood sheathing products, as they provide superior R-value. Foam sheathing:. If you replace plywood or OSB with foam sheathing, your walls will require bracing or other structural reinforcement. When insulating floors above unconditioned garages, first seal all possible sources of air leakage.
This strategy has the added benefit of minimizing the danger of contaminants from car exhaust, paint, solvents, gardening supplies, etc. Also install an air barrier to prevent cold air in the garage from "short circuiting" the insulation underneath the subfloor. A properly insulated basement can save you money on heating and provide a dry, comfortable living space. In most cases, a basement with insulation installed on its exterior walls should be considered a conditioned space.
Even in a house with an unconditioned basement, the basement is more connected to other living spaces than to the outside, which makes basement wall insulation preferable to ceiling insulation. In new construction, adding insulation on the exterior of the basement walls will do the following:. In an existing home, adding insulation to the exterior of the basement walls is impractical.
Interior basement wall insulation has the following advantages:. To determine appropriate R-values for basement walls in your area, use these R-value recommendations. Then choose the type of insulation :. Moisture control is particularly important for basements, because they are notorious for problems with water intrusion, humidity, and mold.
In addition to reducing heating costs, a properly insulated foundation will keep below-grade rooms more comfortable and prevent moisture problems, insect infestation, and radon infiltration. In new construction, consider construction techniques that provide both foundation structure and insulation, such as insulating concrete forms and insulating concrete blocks.
During the construction process, many builders insulate the outside of foundation walls before backfilling. This strategy is possible but impractical and disruptive for existing homes. How you insulate a crawlspace depends on whether it's ventilated or unventilated. Most building codes require vents to aid in removing moisture from the crawlspace. However, many building professionals now recognize that building an unventilated crawlspace or closing vents after the crawlspace dries out following construction is the best option in homes in hot and humid climates using proper moisture control and exterior drainage techniques.
If you have or will have an unventilated crawlspace, the best approach is to seal and insulate the foundation walls rather than the floor between the crawlspace and the house. This strategy has the advantage of keeping piping and ductwork within the conditioned volume of the house so these building components don't require insulation for energy efficiency or protection against freezing. The downside of this strategy is that rodents, pests, or water can damage the insulation and the crawlspace must be built airtight and the air barrier maintained.
Cover the ground with a thick vapor barrier to reduce moisture entering the crawlspace from the ground. Cold concrete slabs can be a source of discomfort in a home. Insulating a slab in an existing home can be expensive and disruptive, but if the slab in your home is cold it is possible to dig around the perimeter of the house and install insulation, usually foam board.
Installing slab insulation during the construction process is more straightforward. Slab insulation, typically foam board, is installed either directly against the exterior of the slab and footing before backfilling or under the slab and along the inside of the stem wall of the foundation.
Termites can tunnel undetected through exterior slab insulation to gain access to the wood framing in a home's walls.
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